Showing posts with label historical. Show all posts
Showing posts with label historical. Show all posts

15.5.12

~ like ~ Théâtre de la Mode 1945

random stuffs.

the weekend was actually quite warm here,
and i hope it would stay longer.

going to do some sewing later
so i thought i should write something instead in the morning.

it's gonna be quite a long one today (・ω<)”
i'm going to introduce and talk about this particular event happened back in 1945. 
 


poster for Théâtre de la Mode exhibition in New York, 1946





Théâtre de la Mode 1945 ,
have you heard of it ?











there was a story behind this project with a strong message. 
but i'm just going to briefly talk about it, cause i just wanna show you how magnificent it was !


Théâtre de la Mode was a defined event of postwar couture. 

this project opened its door on 27th March 1945.

it was intended to mark the freedom and celebrate the survival of French Couture after second world war.

furthermore, the couturiers were attempted to entice back the international market after the war when condition was deprived and under threat. 

la théâtre by christian berrard

it was a display of 237 miniature dolls dressed by fifty three well-known couturiers. 



but why dolls?

presenting fashion in real-life size was considered impractical when fabric were in short supply during war.

however, what would happen if the garments were presented on a division of adult size instead? in limited supply, dolls became practicable to prototype French couture, showing what could be visualized full-size when situation returned to normal.


evening dress by balenciaga




even though they were all in miniature version; the sewing and construction details were all done in perfection and finished meticulously.even their accessories were all made exactly like a real one !




  
one of the dress from la théâtre by christian berrard





 
 













Jean Saint-Martin constructing the structure of the dolls
the structure of the dolls



no harm to point out is the status of the dolls (*´ω`*)

the figures did not resemble 'dolls' or even figures at all. if you noticed, they were actually constructed in wires.









day dress by molyneux, ensemble by georgette renal
 
day ensemble by lucile manguin,sport suit by dupouy magnin



it is understandable that raw materials were difficult to obtain that time thus metal which once lay all around the city by the Nazis were then used. 


 

  

evening dresses by jean patou
navy wool day dress by marcelle chaumont

How amusing (ノ∀`)



the metal which once proposed to destroy Paris now became the skeleton and foundation of the dolls.



evening dress by madame gres




nevertheless;

despite well dressed and graceful; the dolls actually invited us an interpretation of the dissipated life after war with the presence of the wire structure as the body.
evening dress by balenciaga
i guess that this event is still remarkable today as the matter of fact that it was born under difficult circumstances and during a period of crisis after post-war.


dinner dress by lucile manguin






indeed, those dolls stand as a hope for future and also an honour for the creativity skills of the couturiers and artists of France; for been able to work together and bringing a symbol of new life and return of hope.












 
i think it is worth mentioning too about another project The Gratitude Train that took place a few years later.

this project marked the friendship of the americans and french.
the americans were generous enough to help and rebuild the french people's shattered lives after war by sending over boxcars of necessities in a train back in December 14, 1947.

touched by their kindness, the french decided to return their gratitude to the americans by sending back gifts in a total of fourty nine boxcars called The Gratitude Train two years later in 1949.

designed by maggy rouff


the Syndicate de la Couture de Paris which had designed
the théâtre de la mode dolls was involved in this too.
 




designed by callot soeurs










this time, the couturiers dressed forty nine dolls which were constructed from the same wire design as the Théâtre de la Mode in period costumes that portrayed the changes in french fashions from 1715 to 1906.



designed by charles frederick worth
designed by elsa schiaparell



























these delicate dolls were donated to the brooklyn museum in new york as a part of their costume collection today. (visit the link i provided if you are interested to look at the other incredible dolls)




and here is a video i found regarding the théâtre de la mode exhibition held in phoenix art museum last year  
take a glimpse !



wished i could have a close up look at these dolls one day (ू˃̣̣̣̣̣̣︿˂̣̣̣̣̣̣ ू)

maybe they would take a tour to australia someday? 




hope you found it interesting too ♡♡


and now it's time to continue my sewing.



(images courtesy from brooklyn museum, théâtre de la mode: fashion dolls: the Survival of haute couture)

4.4.12

~ inspiration ~ Madeleine Vionnet


Madeleine Vionnet (1876 – 1975) was a French fashion designer that is influential in the 20th century and inspired me as much as Madame Gres.


photograph by Irving Penn for Vionnet, 1974





she was known for introducing bias-cutting into pattern making.
it is indeed a revolutionary way of draping fabric, clinging on the body beautifully - simple but never plain.

Vionnet's goddess gown, 1935; recalling the Greek look







in the early 20th century, she freed women from corsets and bustles that distorted the body form in exchange for garments that accentuated the natural body form.
inspired by ancient greek drapery and dancer's movement where fabrics seemed to be flowing around the human body.


Madeleine Vionnet at work, 1923





Vionnet worked less in innovative structure but more in crafted draping.
her lengthening process included cutting and draping -all on her miniature wooden doll. 
she would use yards and yards of fabrics just to construct a dress.








Vionnet established her maison in 1912 but was forced to close down during second world war.
this classic French house was revived in 2006 and continue to unveil collections by creating modern looks while paying homage to Vionnet's originality.




 





"when a woman smiles, then her dress should smile too." Madeleine Vionnet



visit www.vionnet.com for current collection
or
look out for Betty Kirke's book Madeleine Vionnet filled with studies and original patterns of her works (how excited was i when i saw this book in the library, flipping through pages and pages of pictures and patterns of stunning pieces)


30.3.12

~ inspiration ~ Liberty of London

Attributed to Liberty of London,




British
. Evening Gown, 1880s


amazing historical dress which i adore totally! its sculptural look that is just too surreal, by all means.


adapted from http://www.metmuseum.org

This evening dress is particularly rare and unusual in that it fully incorporates what were viewed as classical elements of the period. The strongest classicizing detail of the gown is in its densely gathered silk, a technique that conjures the wet-drapery of classical statuary. 
The gown's internal structure, with a wasp-waisted corset and bell-shaped underskirt, conforms to the fashionable hourglass silhouette of the period, its surface is intended to replicate the articulated folds that characterize classical renderings of drapery. This softly gathered surface would also have conveyed a tantalizing "naturalism." The consequence is an impression of the female body as less confined by the rectitude of a precise and controlled tailoring.